Draping sleeves.. Who knew!

As a second part to my earlier post about draping on the stand as the new way of drafting I have created this post to talk about the infamous sleeve.

As anyone who is a seasoned costumier / pattern cutter / likes to make clothes knows, sleeves are the devil. Hence why the majority of outfits I make for myself are sleeveless. Drafting and sewing in a perfect looking and fitting sleeve can be a nightmare. Particularly when the sleeve is meant to be fitted, and has none of the fullness of gathering or ruching to make up for a lack of accuracy.

Working in the theatre over summer I got known as 'the girl who likes sleeves' or 'the sleeve Queen'. The majority of costumes that required a sleeve were passed onto me after the bodice was constructed so I could work my magic with a sleeve. I'm not entirely sure how I got this title, I think perhaps just because I was willing to take on the challenge (and admittedly one day I did say I actually like sewing sleeves. Mistake? Nah.) So I set upon my task of dutifully sewing in the sleeves. On my last full day of sewing I was hurled a partially sewn dress for Mrs Potts from Beauty and the Beast and told to finish it asap. It was the dress rehearsal directly before the first performance and Mrs Potts still didn't have a 'human' dress to change into at the end. I had a few hours to do it. The overall sewing of the dress went well, and then it hit me, I had to do a sleeve. Solo. This time I had noones help or guidance, I had to draft and sew in a sleeve to a bodice I didn't draft myself - talk about tricky.

But I did it.

I have never felt such a sense of achievement than when I gathered that sleeve into place, put it on the actress and it looked good. I added a few pleats across the fullness of the cap to give it some decoration and shape, and it was done.

I've stared the sleeve in the eye, and I won.

Yet, I slightly moved off topic there. I really wanted to show my draping sample. We were working on 19th Century styles, so had the lovely leg of mutton sleeve to create.

Back

Front

Side

Pleating down the inside seam

A little bit of measuring and a lot of counting squares from an original pattern, a few lines drawn on some calico, a line of machine stitching and a line of gathering and you're sorted. No fiddly numbers and instructions, no absolute accuracy. Just playing around with a shape. And what a shape it created.

Draping on the stand really has shown me a new way to create your flat patterns. Not only a new way, but a fun and effective way. 

Keep your eyes peeled, my clothes might start resembling some 19th Century chic!

Draping. The new way of drafting.

As part of this term at Uni, we've been allowed to pick certain workshops that we thought might be useful to ourselves and our studies as either designers or makers. As a maker I chose the Draping on the Stand elective. I wasn't quite sure what to expect when I signed up to it, but my word is it different to anything I imagined.

If someone said the word draping to me, I would automatically assume flowing dresses, lots of fabric and smooth lines. What we've been doing over the past three weeks couldn't be further from the truth.

So far we've been creating various historical garments (mostly bodices) that are exactly what you'd need to create a pattern. In other words, draping on the stand is the alternative to paper pattern drafting. Although incredibly technical and hard in its own right, draping on the stand is, to me, far more beneficial, interesting and involves a lot less maths!

Here's a quick look at some of the garments we've done do far.

A modern, basic darted female bodice. Front and back.

18th Century Polonaise Front and Back

Sack Back Dress Lining and Full Dress

Learning how to cut on the stand has increased my confidence and knowledge of how to create garments. Who knew that just by cutting and pinning squares of calico onto a stand you could successfully create any style and form of garment that you want.

I feel that this is one of the most useful things I've learnt so far in my studies, and might just be my new prefered way of creating a pattern.

Uni: Round 2

I'm so appalled in myself for letting my enthusiasm and commitment in this blog fail, especially as I had such a costume action packed summer and had so much to share! Much of this I hope to some up in some later posts.

Alas, I must put this to one side and concentrate on the new and exciting opportunities ahead now that I'm back in Bournemouth, and 2 weeks into my second year of costume study.

Having ummed and ahhed greatly last year over whether to become a maker or designer I finally came out as a maker. At the end of the day there was no real choice, I just love making! 

I made my first item of clothing at 11, with a scrap of horrible synthetic black crepe style fabric and some seriously questionable hand-stitching. It was a top. Or it was supposed to be a top. Despite the true horror of this garment, my 11 year old self was so proud of it, that I marched downstairs to show my mum what I'd made. Nearly a decade on (turning 21 next week! Eek!) and I can certainly say my sewing skills have improved, and my passion and love for what I do has increased tenfold.

Not only do I enjoy the making of costumes, but just the act of making itself, and regularly make my own clothes. Over summer I added quite a number to my collection, the most recent being this 60's style dress. Which I am so proud of, it's one of the most complex things I've attempted on my own, with a collar, zip and darted bodice. I feel beautiful in it and just generally adore it. I always know I'm going to get exactly what I want, when I create my own pieces.

In fact, I've had such amazing responses to some of my homemade clothes that I've been considering setting up a small side business selling custom pieces. Not quite sure how to do that yet though. Not sure I have the time or the energy! But keep your eyes pealed, cos it might happen!

Back to uni life.. it's second year, it's harder, it actually counts for my final grade, it's important. Need I go on? Learning so much already, but I'll leave that for a later date.

Berlin

I didn't realise how badly I'd been ignoring this blog, until I just came on and saw my last post was nearly a month ago. Sorry blog.

Between working hectic shifts at the pub (most of which steal my evenings - prime blogging time!), trying to keep up with my sewing and finding a time for my boyfriend and social life, I guess I've let it slip. I want to now correct this wrong.

I recently went on a city trip break to Berlin with the other half, and I bet I know what you're thinking, what does this have to do with costume? Quite frankly, and literally, nothing. However costume is inspired by culture, art, life. It is creating a character, and therefore understanding different cultures and circumstances that shape their personalities and influenced their clothing. There's one thing that Berlin certainly has in buckets, and that's culture.

Polar Bear Sculpture: Berlin Zoo

Having never been to anywhere in Germany before, because my Jewish mother finds the prospect quite daunting, I found it a refreshing and amazing experience. I loved it. It is unlike any other capital city I've ever visited. It's beautiful and has this modern touch with all these touches of underlying old. Very intriguing. Obviously it is a very new city, with the damage hailed to it in WW2 and after the collapse of the Berlin Wall only just over 20 years ago. This is a city that has suffered much damage and torment, and through that has become an incredibly lively and cultural place to be.

Brandenberg Gate

There is a wonderfully artist retro vibe through Berlin, and they do call it the craft Capital, with many artisans flocking to it as their home after the reforms. You see this creative culture everywhere. In the graffiti murals and paintings, so unlike the British scrawl you see in London, to the beautiful architecture, to the sculptures and fountains that are buried away within the acres of parkland stretched across the city. In fact one of the most refreshing things about Berlin is the woodland, the greenery. Over 1/3 of the city is taken up by parkland and it really makes a difference. You can walk straight off a busy main road in the very heart of Berlin by the Reichstag, and walk for miles through the wooded Tiergarten. Heaven for the imagination, so easy to remove yourself from the hustle and bustle.

The viewing Dome atop the Reichstag.

Berlin is an unforgettable city and one I'm very glad I took the time to visit. The culture and the characters to be found there are so interesting. They've given me a new range of people and new understanding of characters. And undoubtably, with visits to the Jewish Museum, and the Topography of Terror museum my knowledge of Berlins history, Germany's history, and my own history is so much more acute. This one trip could influence my outlook and understanding in whole new ways.

Beauty Personified

Been off the radar again in the blogging world... But something about being home for the summer makes me become busier than ever!

This post is personal. I came across the photographer Rowan Papier when I studied at London College of Fashion in 2010-2011, as he also studied there the same year. I was lucky enough to see some of his early work, and some of his work in the studios. And even more than that, I saw and lived alongside his ever beautiful muse Tunde Kiss. 

There's something about the bond between photographer and model in their case. Something that creates magic. The photo's that Mr Papier capture are nothing sort of breath-taking. They are beauty personified. Perfection.

Not having a huge knowledge of photography and how it works, I can still appreciate how much work these shots entail. 

There's so much life, movement, youth in his work. There is an electricity captured in the pictures that I've rarely seen before. Check them out on his site: http://www.rowanpapier.com

Egg whisks and Toast racks

Having broken up from uni for summer, and having the adjustment of getting back to normal life, I almost forgot to blog. Almost. Nagging in the back of my mind is that I have to do something. And I know its been a break, but I've had a lot going on!

This summer I'm going to be working on a production of Beauty and the Beast with the Wycombe Swan Youth Theatre. I just got the go-ahead from the creative manager about the dates I'll be working and some of the costumes I'll be making. Namely, lots of 'egg whisk and toast rack' costumes for the chorus line. I've never made anything like these in my life, so to say I'm nervous would be an understatement.

Who knows if the costumes are supposed to look real, maybe each child spelling out a different letter of toast. Or is that to corny? Too overdone? Or should they look like below, the guys in salt and pepper costumes?

This is going to be a task that's going to stretch me incredibly as a costume maker, the construction skills are going to be so different to anything I've done before. Let's hope it looks good!

When I get some photos of the production, have a look. 

'Be my guest.'

Just stop & stare

Sometimes, whilst trawling through the internet, you come across an image or a website that just makes you stop and stare. Something that makes you catch your breath, it draws you in and mesmerises you. Makes you question so many things, and most importantly, makes you inspired.

As someone who would sorely love to be able to draw well (yet alas my talents lie more in three-dimensional world) seeing these stunning drawings made me feel ridiculously inadequate.

Yes, this is a drawing. Not a photograph. A stunning, precision pencil line drawing created by Ken Lee. He is a UK artist that mostly specialises in these drawings of beautiful women with the most exquisite detail.

The smooth and supple quality to these drawings is awe inspiring. If I hadn't been told it wasn't a drawing, I'd never know. They've inspired me to work on my 'designer' skills over this long summer. Find something that inspires you.

Check it out

It might only be the local paper, but super proud of all the AUCB people who made this happen.

http://www.bournemouthecho.co.uk/news/9732184._Vampires__brave_sunlight_for_film_shoot_at_Branksome_Chine/

Hopefully word will spread & the amazing work we all did here will be appreciated. Apparently Kate Bush herself and her record label are anticipating the arrival of this music video.. It could be big!

Peace & love.

Vampires on the beach..

Well, we've been filming all week & what a long week it's been. One long day spent at AUCB in the studios, filming for the Vampires lair. Plenty of dark shadows, candle-light & close up shots of the gorgeous costumes and make-up. Followed by a sweltering day of filming on the beach.

Attempting to sprint across sand, in an unbelievably tight corset, holding an umbrella, in 25 degrees heat, whilst attempting not to trip over the trailing dresses & capes of fellow Vamps is probably one of the hardest things I've done. But also one of the most enjoyable.

The experiences I've gained on this project have been unreal. A first year costume student, with a fully fledged music video under my belt is an impressive claim to fame. Getting the chance to liase with make-up artists (and get the makeup done on myself), being a dresser, and hanging around on the film set being a runner and sorting things out for the actors was an impressive experience and I definitely want more.

Here's a few sneak-peak offset shots from the beach filming day. The amount of locals that wanted pictures with the hoard of 50 vamps was amazing. I guess it was an odd sight for the Bournemouth coastline.

Rocking it in the grey wig in the corner. Apparently I was the Gaga Vamp.

Dark circular shades & umbrella's gave our 18th Century style costumes a modern twist. Comments were that we looked a little 'Dark Shadows', the new Johnny Depp film. Although we did get mistaken for either a hen-do or a recreation of the Spanish Armada...

The story-line to this music video is epic. Should be edited and up & running by September. So I'll keep you posted!

Dress Parade Time..

The time has finally come for us to flip-roles, the shoes went on the other foot and our entire course of costume students became models for the day. We got to experience how an actor is going to feel, being prodded and poked and ordered around. We had to hang around for hours waiting to see the director, and in seriously tight 18C corsets that was not a pleasant wait. But seeing Imogen in full hair & make-up and in costume more than made up for it.

Imogen rocking the full costume. The puff has been put on wrong, but apart from that I love it!

Beautiful make-up & hair (wig) done by Paula Logan. Another fellow AUCB student studying on first year on the hair and make-up course. It really compliments my costume and I adore the horns on the wig.

Corset it fitting perfectly. Guess the alterations worked!

Now for a few photos of myself in Maudie's costume, with the make-up & hair by Susanna Epner.

Beautiful work by the whole course. Next stop: film shoot.

Next Stage

Final costume finished and on the stand. Pretty proud of how it's looking and the designer gave the feedback that it's a beautifully made piece and she's pleased with it. Job done!

Watch out for posts on the dress parade!

Puffed Up

The costume is finally coming together, the finish line is in sight, the 'puff' is working!

Hours, days, weeks of work have gone into this costume. Gives me a new appreciation about how people in the 18th Century actually lived. They wore these outfits everyday, and sewed them all, completely by hand! It takes long enough with modern methods.

Can't wait to put this on Imogen.

Presentation Time

After spending most of the week and weekend stressing about this on stand presentation, it feels amazing to have it up there! Things were mostly just pinned together, but the corset is near on complete, which is a huge relief. Don't even want to think how many hours I've put into it.The chemise is coming along really well too, really happy with the volume and fullness its achieved, didn't think that it would. But then again, the hem is nearly 3m in circumference. There's a lot of fabric in it.

Beading decoration on the skirt and corset was loved by all. Considering they've taken a couple of hours each, I'm glad to have them over. Note to all, beading takes forever; especially when your beads are smaller than the head of the smallest beading needle out there.

Apparently my 'puff' wasn't large enough or puffy enough. Gotta whack a whole more net under it to achieve the volume.

Working with Frances Tempest, a major player in the Costume Design for Screen industry is the best experience possible. Learning day by day something new about the industry and the world of construction. So many questions and decisions to run by the designer. Collaboration is key.

Hand-stitching sure takes a while..

Doing the finishing touches to an authentic 1780's fully boned stay is tricky. If the bones aren't cut to the exact right length they either won't support the corset properly, or they'll get in the way of the tedious bias binding. That's what I've spent the past day and night doing - bias binding round the corset.

They're the fully bound corset, very nearly finished, from the front. All that's left to put in is the eyelets.

The corset from the inside. Showing the structure. The seams have been slip-stitched down aswell. All in all a lot of handstitching goes into one of these. It takes a while!

Vamp me up.

I recently had my own fitting in the Vampire costume being made for me. Big love to Maudie Manton, my maker, who has done an incredible job at making a corset os unbelievably tight that I can barely breath in it! That's how it should be.
Being prodded and poked and measured and photographed is a truly novel experience and I'll never take what actors go through for granted. The whole point of this project is so we can see everything from the other POV and it's doing a mighty good job. It certainly is novel to see how an actor or model would feel and makes you as a maker far more aware of how you behave toward them.
Here are a few photos of me in my costume, being truly cinched in...

It was a great experience to be fitted. I still have one question though, what to do with you face when the photo's being taken??